Friday, January 17, 2014

1920s chemise

Pattern: Depew #3026

Mock up
It took me a little while to understand the directions, but when I stopped and went one by one on my muslin it was easy enough. What I couldn't figure out was how to attach the lace and it look nice on both sides. I didn't want to just top stitch it down. Plus what do I do with the fabric edge underneath. The pattern does come with lots of vintage sewing tips but I don't think they originally came with this pattern because it will refer to dress A and so on. After searching the web, not finding anything, and much frustration,  I adopted an "I don't care if its not exactly the right way of doing it" mind frame and just jumped in.
 For the straight edge of the lace I put the right sides together with the fabric overlapping approximately 1/16th of an inch. I used a zig-zag stitch which conveniently wraps the fabric into the seam. That fixed my what do I do with the fabric problem. :)  For the other side I folded and sewed a very narrow seam towards the right side, which was then covered by the lace. I back stitched it into place, which isn't the prettiest on the back side, but nobody should see it, right? 

 After that it was smooth sailing. I couldn't get fabric roses to look the same which irritated the perfectionist in me. Oh well... Instructions for these and two other fabric/ribbon roses are included at the back of the pattern. The roses are attached at the bottom of the lace to conceal that join.

My favorite part is definitely the pleats. It adds just enough interest to a simple shape.